Peer Review

Peer Review

I was happy with my design my partner carried out, it was exactly as I expected with great base and blending of the products, he listened to what I wanted and did it step by step to create the best look possible.

He struggled slightly with the heart but he overcame this well to perfect it, he had great determination and I was overall satisfied. 

He had great attention to detail when carrying out my design as well.

He gave me his design, it looked good, it was clear, even though I couldn’t read certain products he’d used, although any question I asked he answer me immediately. I was happy with the way we both bounced off each other for advice and our structure during the whole project.

 I like how he kept with the Elizabethan design with the pale complexion and rosey cheeks but made it modern and quirky with the use of the orange combined.

However, he did change his face chart at the last minute which threw me off, with the detailed eyebrows and slight gold underneath. I feel changing his design at the last minute was due to lack of planning, however it came together well and he was pleased.

Overall, we had great communication, we worked well together and understood each other’s designs. The best part was his concentration and his attention to detailing and how he overcame his mistakes along the way. 

Technical file signed off

Final Face Charts

My 4 Final Design Face Charts 

Face Chart 1.

One of my final face charts I created on my model, I wanted a dark and edgy look with the use of metallic eye make-up making the looking mysterious, I wanted it to represent an eye mask but blended into the skin to become part of the face. I kept the feel of the Elizabethan style with blocking out the brows and by making the skin pale by mixing supra white with Illamasqua white base.

Stage 1- Coverage of the base blended with the kabuki, contoured with the dark brown blusher palette, giving definition and structure of the jaw line and blocking out the brows using only supra white color all over working it in with the wand.

Front view of the design

Another image

Face Chart 2.

Complimentary colour face chart & Inspirations

I got inspiration for the feathering of the eyebrows from various sources, I especially liked this photograph below with the use of the feathers gathered to create wings on her head, this photo reminded me of the elizabethan times and when they used feathers in their hats to give texture and giving the flamboyant appeal. I wanted to use this in one of my designs on the eyebrows, to really enhance and work in the product to produce the feathered effect, I wanted to use pink and red tones with yellow tones which are complimentary to each other in my design and I really liked the way my chart came out and on my face. 

I believe next time I would of used glue on the brows to make them more crazy, fluffy looking, to really emphasise them and I feel the product would of worked in better also. 

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/48835977179483810/

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/7951736819456721/

These pictures inspired me for the above face chart, I liked the small heart placement on the cheek with the red cheeks, so keeping it Elizabethan but with a modern twist with the beauty mark heart and I loved the yellow tones in the eyebrows, therefore I used pinks and yellows in my face charts and really emphasise the contour with both pink and yellow mix in. I experimented with the yellow and pink/red and it worked well together; I really wanted to use this design but in my own interpretation to really compliment each other and give this inspirational picture a boost with different yellow tones (gold) and to emphasise on this to create my design. 

I really enjoyed creating and working with these colours and these colours remind me of the Elizabethan times, the red/ pink tones on the cheeks and lips and the yellow/reddish was the ideal colour for the hair to reflect wealth; therefore I wanted to use a bright colour that stood out in the brows so I used the gold to really show up the brows and this really worked well. 

Face Chart 3.

I practiced this final design on my face, I loved the colours and techniques used, although when using the Supra on the eyes for precision work, the product is very moveable and doesn't dry as quick as imagined, therefore I would of used the Aqua Color if I did this design and again, as this is faster drying and great for small detailed work.

The product was moving too much and it didn't work as well to create.

Products used:

• Kryolan Supra color white, blue, black & pink 
• Kryolan Variety eyeshadow palette- blue colours
• Kryolan Blusher palette medium brown and pink
• Loose powder Illamasqua 
• Glue for brows and wand to make them spikey

Images of the design

Front close up and different angles

Final Chart 4.

Final Design 3: Practicing on myself, as I have designed my face charts designed to my my own face.

Products used:

• satin primer illamasqua
• white base foundation illamasqua
• Supra color gold, purple & black
• Blusher palette kryolan dark brown & pink
• Loose powder illamasqua 

Face Chart Design

OTHER.FACE.CHART.DESIGN

This is one of my face chart designs, practicing with different colours and products. I wanted to incorporate blocking out the eyebrows to keep with the traditional Elizabethan, also the use of heavy contour which is popular in today's time and giving the lips more of a pout and representing a rose bud, making the lips stand out with the vibrant pink colour. 

When looking back at this face chart, I just wasn't sure about it, I loved the lip design so I would use this in other design work and to test it out.

My Final Design

Contemporary Elizabethan Make-up Final Design

My Final design Face chart and with practicing it out on my model

I practiced one of my final designs on my peer in class, there were a few adjustments I made due to other products working better for the effect I wanted. 

I firstly I pinned up my design on the mirror so It could guide me through it step. I believed if I did a couple step by step designs throughout the design in order to break it down it would be easier to read and to see what I wanted to achieve in this look. Therefore, I will do this in the future to make it easier to follow. 

Products used and brushes used:

Cleanse, toner and moisturiser

Matte Illamasqua Primer

Supra Color Kryolan white mixed with white base by illamasqua 

Blusher kryolan Dark Brown

Obsidian eye shadow by illamasqua 

metallic palette by illamasqua light & dark silver 

Loose powder illamasqua

Brushes:

Foundation brush

kabuki brush, blusher/ contour brush

flat eye shadow brush

angled brush

Wand 

pointed lip brush

I prepared my peer with using a gown to cover her from access make-up a hair band to keep her hair off her hair; I then cleansed, toned and moisturised, I make sure I carry this out on every model, this reflects my professionalism as an artist. 

Secondly, I used Illamasqua white base mixed with Supra color, I like the consistency and I like the way it blends well onto the skin, with still giving the powdered Elizabethan pale skin effect. I blended this well all over the face, neck and ears, I then applied Supra color white over the eyebrows with the use of a brow wand, this really works in the product and gives me the effect I wanted. I made sure I used the wand against the eyebrow hair and then with the hair, in order for it to really sit well in the brows and I was happy with the outcome of this. 

When these stages were done, I powdered all over the face and brows to help fix the make-up. I felt a lot of powder was needed in areas such as the eyelids, in the creases of the nose, so I concentrated on those areas. I next went onto contouring the face using the dark brown colour in the Blusher Palette Kryalon, I worked it up with sweeping motions, I didn't want this to look to harsh and I also blended this to give her a more gaunt look, which I feel I achieved by doing so, with going over with loose powder. 

Moving on I then used Illamasqua obsidian black colour on the eyes and blended it across the bridge of the nose and onto the next eye, giving the band of smokey black across the eye area. This section was well blended, giving a diffused, fuzzy feel to it. I had to add a bit of white eye shadow onto the area to give it more of a grey tone, which also worked well, however this wasn't on my face chart and made sure I changed the steps of the eye shading. 

For the next step, I wanted to create a petal effect around the whole of the eyes, I wanted to create this with the dark silver sculpting palette by Illamasaqua, with a flat round brush, with dabbing motions, I did this and discovered I needed to build on it to get the effect I wanted, It wasn't as I expected but I really liked the effect it gave, so I stuck with it. I then used Supra color on the eye lashes with a wand to give her the eyelashes I wanted for my design, they really stood out in front of the dark shade of grey used on the eyes; the contrast worked well for me and I was pleased with the outcome. 

For this design I really wanted to capture darkness, tiredness, gaunt, mysterious, all in which I found Elizabethans were.
After finishing the base and eyes application, I used the black eye shadow to create the heart below her left eye, I then used the light silver sculpting metallic by Illamasqua on the lips for the base then creating the small heart shape with the black eye shadow powder, the powder fixed well as I placed it onto the cream metallic base. I really liked the effect it gave and there were no problems with this part of my design. 
Overall, after putting my design off paper onto my model, I felt it went well and but I did have to adapt slightly and came up with some better ideas, so therefore I changed my face chart, as I learnt different techniques along the way and used other products to get the look I wanted for my design.

I used the supra white with the use of a wand over the eyebrows and lashes and loved the outcome with using against the hair and with the hair movements to fully cover the hairs in white. Covering the eyebrows was popular during the Elizabethan times and wanted to use this in my design but with my more modern tones and colours combined.



face on view of my final design make-up and a up close photo below 

I really enjoyed using pale, dark and metallic colours together to set the mood and tone I wanted to reflect in my design, I used these to show mystery with a dark edgy look, which was inspired by my chosen lady in waiting Anne Vavasour and modern day character Amy Winehouse.

Health & Safety

Health and Safety in the Make-up Studio & how to set up properly for your model

• Make sure you are correctly dressed
• Bags and coats are hung out the way 
• Hair tied back, off the face
• Flat shoes to prevent slips trips or falls
• Good personal hygiene, not too much perfume, if you smoke remember gum, no model wants to smell that
• Hands are thoroughly washed before creating a make-up look
• Anti Bacterial is great to keep in your kit
• Make-up brushes are clean ready to be used and clean between each client with alcohol cleaner
• Keeping your brushes sterile is essential- prevent cross contamination
• Turn on mirrors 
• Adjust chair to suit you whilst doing your models make-up, prevent back pains
• Your area is clean and tidy
• Make sure you work in an organised manner with brushes and products laid neatly 
• Carry out consultation if needed on model- skin analysis
• Overall be friendly, confident and professional at all times

Reflection & Evaluation

Evaluation & Reflection

During our project I feel I have developed my skills, with experimenting more with different techniques and products. I enjoyed carrying out my partners design, it was something I had ever done before and I accomplished the challenge.

I had previously never worked on a male and seeing how the design came together made me happy and confident; this was because of the practice and communication between myself and my partner. I believe this all reflected in the final images.

The thing I struggled with was getting an all over even blend of product as there were a couple slightly faint patches where I could of used more product; I felt my strength was the lips and the heavy contour on the jaw line, defining these two went well and also covering the facial hair with orange product evenly.

If I did this design again I would have been more precise with the base with coverage and the detailed work on the eyebrow work, although this was the first I heard of the detailing.

To do this again I would have used a smaller brush to give clear definition, I would of been able to plan ahead if I didn't receive the changes at the last minute from my partner, however, this was overcame but I was a little disappointed with the precision of these at the end of the eyebrows. 

Overall, I enjoyed the challenge and the project because of learning of the new skills and the history behind it; I also was happy with both assessments and felt we were both given clear instructions and made me satisfied that my partner was happy with his final design I create; and lastly the overall looks, looked great.

The final images of the assessment

My Partners final design created by myself

Make-up Artist: Natalie Hodgkins
Model: Toby Oldfield

Side view

Make-up Artist: Natalie Allana Hodgkins

Model: Toby Oldfield

Side View

Make-up Artist: Natalie Allana Hodgkins

Model: Toby Oldfield

My Final Design designed by myself and created by my partner

Make-up Artist: Toby Oldfield

Model: Natalie Allana Hodgkins

Front close up shot

Make-up Artist: Toby Oldfield

Model: Natalie Allana Hodgkins

Angled shot of my design

Make-up Artist: Toby Oldfield

Model: Natalie Allana Hodgkins

Side angle of my final design

Skin & Hair Conditions

                                        Skin & Hair Conditions 

Skin Conditions- Non Contagious

Acne:
This is a skin condition that causes spotting 'pimples'. This includes white-heads, blackheads and red inflamed patches of skin. The cause of acne is when the pores of your skin on the surface become clogged. The spotting occurs when the glands produce too much oil and then the pores become blocked, this is when dirt and bacteria build up within the pores causes spotting, leading to acne (severe spotting). This skin condition can be treated by facial washes, prescriptive creams and medication, however, depending on how bad the acne is, a make-up application would only be 
restricted if mild acne and a heavy based foundation would be avoided to prevent from worsening them problem.

Psoriasis- 

Is a skin condition that appears on the skin that causes red, flaky, crusty patches of skin covered with silvery scales. This condition is not infectious and most people are only infected with small amounts over their body. Psoriasis is a long lasting disease that can occur at any point, they say stress or changes in the weather conditions can cause inflammation of psoriasis. There is no cure for this skin condition and is a genetic condition and cannot be caught from one person to another. 

Acne Rosacea- 

is a skin condition which commonly occurs in more mature people. Rosacea is a common disorder that mainly affects skin on the face, where it causes redness on the nose, chin, cheeks and forehead. Over time, the redness can become more intense, taking on a ruddy appearance and the blood vessels may become visible. The signs and symptoms are: frequent flushing where it comes and goes and this is one of the earliest signs of this condition. Bumps and pimples appear on the skin, where small red solid bumps or pus-filled pimples often develop in rosacea (where they are often resembled like acne). Visible blood vessels become visible on the skin  of many people who suffer with rosacea. The other potential symptoms include: eye irritation, burning, stinging, dry appearance, skin thickening and swelling. Depending on how bad your clients skin condition is, a make-up treatment would be restricted and adapted to suit their needs depending on how severe their condition is.

Skin Tags-

Are soft like, hanging pieces of skin that hang from the eyelids, they're harmless. People who are more prone to skin tags are people who have caught them heredity or have gain excessive weight. They are painless and some can be rubbed off, they can be frozen off by doctors, but if there not painful or irritating they should be left alone. They are often found on the eyelids, under-arms, under breasts and is common amongst adults. They can not be caught and a make-up treatment, would be restricted e.g. less eye-make-up to avoid irritation. They are non contagious, just very uncomfortable.

Skin conditions- Contagious

Impetigo-

It is a highly contagious bacterial skin infection and is very common. It often appears around the mouth area and appears as blisters, which are usually red, itchy but not sore, it can be treated with prescriptive creams and medication. Caused by the spread of bacteria and is caught from person to another. Therefore you would prevent from carrying out a make-up treatment if your client had impetigo, due to the fact this is a highly contagious skin infection and would be caught from one person to another, so your client would have to wait until the infection had gone before having the treatment.

Cold Sores-

This is an infection of the lip by herpes simplex virus, an outbreak typically causes small blisters or sores on or around the mouth and commonly known as cold sores. The sores typically heal within 2-3 weeks and is highly contagious, caused by e.g. drinking from the same bottle as an infected person. They will come and go throughout life and if your client has one, you would not treat them due to it being infectious and they would have to wait till it has healed before having a make-up treatment.

Conjunctivitis-
This is a highly contagious bacterial or viral condition of the eye or eyes, it is easily spread by contact with the person who has the condition. It is a common infection of the eye area, it is also referred to as 'pink eye', the appearance causes the eyes to look red, watery, swollen. It causes the eye/ eyes to become sensitive to light, uncomfortable the feeling of grit in the eyes, it can be very painful and you get discharge from your eye/ eyes in the result of a viral conjunctivitis. 
It can be caused from getting bacteria in the eyes by rubbing your eyes, it could be from getting substance in your eyes e.g. dirt, make-up or viral from your immune system being low and catching viral infections such as conjunctivitis.
Eye drops and antibiotics will help to clear the condition in roughly one week. 

Hair Conditions: contagious 

Ringworm tinea-

Ringworm is a very common skin infection that causes a ring-like red rash on the skin, the rash can appear almost anywhere on the body, including the scalp, feet, groin being the common areas to find the infectious skin condition. It usually isn't a serious condition and is easily treated with medicated creams, however, ring worm is highly contagious and is easily spread from one person to another. It is a infectious skin condition caused by a fungus, therefore you could not treat a person with this condition. 

Image below of Ringworm tinea

Head Lice-

A highly contagious condition caused by lice in the hair, it is most common in children and not caused by dirty hair, people with clean hair can catch them, they are easily spread between people. It causes the head to become irritant and itchy, the lice become embedded within the hair, lay eggs and produce more lice which becomes constantly itchy. Therefore If they are spotted or your model has them you should not treat your client until they have been treated, with hair treatment to kill the lice. 

Hair conditions: Non contagious 

Alopecia-

Is a non contagious hair condition that can occur in both adults and children and men and women both as equally. Hair loss occurs at first of clumps of hair falling out, leaving the scalp completely smooth in texture, this is occured by the immune system mistakenly attacking the root of the hair follicle where each hair begins growing. It effects both the hair on the head, facial and body hair. In rare cases the entire head can become bald with the loss of all the hair; but commonly it falls off in patches causing the head to appear patchy with bald spots. This condition is either family history related, prone to allergies resulting in this condition or just having extensive hair loss. 

• It is diagnosed with blood tests and skin analysis.
• Is not curable and only 10% will have this condition permanently

Psoriasis- 

It is a common condition, red, scaly and raised in appearance, it usually occurs in patches and can cover the whole of the scalp when bad. It causes itchiness and results in the scalp/ neck becoming sore. It is a noncontagious condition and can be treated with special prescription shampoos and creams to control the condition. It comes and goes and usually is esspecially bad during the winter seasons. It is linked to family history of the condition.

Here is an image below of the condition: 

Dandruff-

A common hair condition, that appears white and flaky, it falls from the scalp into the hair making the hair appear 'snowy' a lot of people become embarrassed about having this condition, although very common and easy to get. It can become dry and itchy in the scalp, it occurs due to the body continuously shedding dead skin cells as new ones are forming. This can be caused by using to many products in the hair, washing the hair too much or too little or even emotional stress can cause this. There are shampoos to treat this non contagious condition to reduce flakiness.

Folliculitis- 

This is an inflammation of the hair follicles, Red like pimple which is full of either pus or blood; it can occur in the hair or the facial hair on either head, face or body. Caused by the spread of bacteria, it can also be caused by yeast or type of fungus too. It is where the follicles are blocked by:

• Oil, products, dirt or make-up causes this to occur
• Likely to occur if you wear tight clothes
• Cut on your head/ face/ body becomes infected by the spread of bacteria 

References:
http://www.healthline.com/health/itching#4- Impetigo
https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000873.htm- Acne
https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000434.htm- Psoriasis
http://patient.info/health/rosacea-leaflet- Acne rosacea
http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Ringworm/Pages/Introduction.aspx- ringworm
http://skintagshowtoremovenaturalathome.tripod.com/- Skin Tags
https://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000606.htm- Cold sores
http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Conjunctivitis-infective/Pages/Causes.aspx- conjunctivitis
http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/hair-loss/tc/alopecia-areata-topic-overview?page=2- Hair condition
http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/tc/folliculitis-topic-overview
http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/psoriasis/scalp-psoriasis
http://www.dermnet.com/images/Tinea-Ringworm-Face/picture/11128

http://wip.centrodermo.com/en/content/different-forms-alopecia-causes-hair-loss

http://www.middlewichcosmetictreatments.co.uk/Acne.htm- Acne
http://www.tti.library.tcu.edu.tw/DERMATOLOGY/fac/fa0099f.htm
http://www.medicinenet.com/skin_tag/article.htm
http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Impetigo/Pages/Symptoms.aspx
http://www.dovemed.com/giant-papillary-conjunctivitis-gpc/
http://africanhairblog.com/2011/06/09/treatment-for-dandruff-itchy-scalp/
http://doctorsgates.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/barbers-itch.html- Folliculitis 
http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Cold-sore/Pages/Introduction.aspx- cold sore
http://stylemom.com/2014/10/20/kill-autumn-enemies-skin-easy-cheesy-home-masks/

My Final Design practice

My final design Practice

My final design chart and step by step guide for myself and my partner to follow.

I practiced the design out on myself to see if it worked well with the use of products, I was very happy with the outcome of my practice of my design.

Products used:

• Matte Primer by Illamasqua 
• White base Illamasqua foundation
• Blusher palette by Kryolan dark brown
• Supra Color white by Kryolan
• Obsidian eye shadow 
• Metalliac eye palette by Illamasqua 
• Loose powder by illamasqua 

Front shot of practice of my final design