All about make-up base: Foundation Base and Contouring

All about that Base: Foundation and Contouring

                                 

On my first week doing base face foundation, concealer, highlighting, shading and blusher I found was very enjoyable to create a great natural look with the products. First of all I make sure I wash my hands, hair is tied back and then began to prepare my models face ready for the routine, I did this by carrying out a the skin care routine (cleanse, tone and moisturised) I finish off this with a use of satin primer as my model wanted a sheer, glowy finish to her skin. 

I then matched up her skin colour with the foundation palette colours and tested out the colour match on her neck in order to get the best coverage for her to match her complexion. 

       

I used the foundation brush to lay out the product and buffed in the product with the kabuki brush to really blend in the product, I made sure I blended thoroughly all over including the ears and the neck area in order to not  see a line on the jaw line area or by the ears. I then went onto the concealer where I also mixed up colours to cover up any red areas, blemishes, dark circles on my client which was dabbed on with a small make-up brush and blended also very well. 

Furthermore, my first model I created a contour look with the use of powders and on my second model I created it with creams; firstly I highlighted with colours that were two shades lighter then the skin colour, this was carried out above the cheekbone, under the brow and above to give it lift, between the nose, along the nose and centre of the forehead to give great lightening and to enhance the shape and structure. 

I blended in my product, which then took me onto shading in on the jaw line to give great structure and definition, this also narrows the face and gives it more definition. I used colours for that were two shades darker for the shading then the skin tone and blended well so there was no harsh line across my models face, subtle but effective on both my clients. 

I used this either side of the nose to draw the nose in, to create a smaller, defined nose, also under the jaw to create narrowing effects. I then finally went onto using a mixture of different tones to create a natural pink colour for a blush, I applied this to the apples of the cheeks and used sweeping up motions to create the healthy pink glow, I blended it and gave warm to each of my models face. To fix my overall make-up looks I used powdered generously all over the face with the use of patting movements, this gives the make-up protection, in order to hold the make-up in place.

I created each base look designed to my models face to give them the best outcome and definition in a natural way and really enjoyed creating and experimenting with the products.

For next time, I need to really find the jaw line area to give a better line of definition and build up the product a little bit more to do so. I mostly enjoyed creating the contour effect with the use of creams which was carried out on my second client, I felt it was less 'cakey' looking and easier to blend and mould into the look I wanted.

Consultation forms for both my Models:

Consultation forms for both of my models

Model 1.

Base & powder Contour

Model 1: Rebecca Southerden
Base and contour created with cream and powder contour
Aged: 21
Skin assessment: skin type is combination, oily t-zone, yellow and red tones in the skin.
Products used:

• Kryolan cream foundation palette 
• Glamour glow Kryolan palette
• Blusher Palette Kryolan palette 
• Lip rouge palette Kryolan palette

I created a natural cover up with a great colour match with the cream foundations, concealed areas of concern and gave her slight natural definition with glow and a sheer finish. I was pleased with my outcome, the parts I found hard was concealing certain tones of the skin e.g. dark circles, getting the colour match was difficult, therefore I will try and test different colours of my palette and mix them together to find the best concealer match.

I enjoyed every stage, especially highlighting the face, it really makes a difference in the appearance and brings out my models features. I also found getting the position to contour along the cheek line up towards the side of the face a little challenging to get the correct line for defining this area; this will come with practise and making sure I feel along the cheek bone, making sure I don't go to low with the shading and blending is essential.

Overall, my model was happy with the outcome, she said it was very natural and gave her skin a glow, however, she had previously worn the cream foundation and it seemed to again crease under her eyes, so next time I would concentrate with primer under the eyes or where creases are or maybe use a different foundation mixture e.g. liquid instead of cream and powder, as this may be the best product for her skin.

Side View of model 1. 

Side View of model 1.

Close up picture of model 1.

Model 2.

Base & Cream Contour

Model 2: Harriet Wilson

Base and contour using both cream products for both

Aged: 20

Skin assessment: combination skin, oily t-zone, sensitive skin,  blemishes

Products used:

• Satin primer by Illamasqua
• Kryolan cream foundation palette for foundation and contouring
• Derma Color camouflage palette by Kryolan 
• Blusher palette by Kryolan 

This was my second base make-up practice, I enjoyed all the stages, especially mixing up the products to create the perfect base for my model. Firstly, I carried out a consultation form indicating if there are any contraindications, what her skin type and tone was and shape face to see where the define/ highlight and shade.
I applied the primer to help hold the base into place; I Created the perfect base on my model to really fit her skin colouring, I did this by mixing a couple colours from the cream palette in order to do so and to test it on the neckline to make sure it matched up correctly.
When I applied it all over the face and down the neck line, I needed to buff it into the skin to help blend and even it into the skin making the end result look sheer and even.
I was happy with the end results and felt it was a good colour match for my model.

Contoured with the cream palette, when I first applied it with a smaller brush into order to line out on my model face where I needed to contour it looked thick and I was worried it wouldn't blend well but when using the kabuki brush it blended straight away and looked very natural.
I liked the look of the cream contour and I feel it looked less cakey and smoothed out a lot more easily compared to the powdered contour.

Side and front views of applying the base with Kryolan cream foundation

More images of the natural base coverage and slight contour by using the cream kryolan palette 

Side of face with use of cream contour by kryolan to contour slightly, giving definition in a natural way

Contoured and a use of blush on the cheeks for a natural look

Another image of the base created, with the contour and blush to finish off the perfect base

References: 

My own class work, notes 

http://www.coventgarden.uk.com/directory/shopping/make/charles-h-fox-ltd

http://www.makeupalley.com/product/showreview.asp/ItemId=121031/Ultra-foundation-cream/Kryolan/Cr%EF%BF%BDme

http://www.gurumakeupemporium.com/Dermacolor-Mini-Palette