Sunday, 25 October 2015

Elizabethan Portraits and Symbolism



Portraits of the 16th Century, what are they saying?

Reference: British School 16th century1500–1599
Model: A Young Lady Aged 21, Possibly Helena Snakenborg, Later Marchioness of Northampton
Date: 1569
Collection
Tate
Acquisition: Presented by the Friends of the Tate Gallery 1961


The Marchioness of Northampton, this portrait painting, reflects royalty and wealth of the young Marchioness. She was born in Sweden, she was known for her red hair and being a close friend of Elizabeth I. You can see so much detail in this portrait, firstly behind her left ear you see a fresh carnation which symbolises betrothal, where it shows she is engaged and ready to be wedded. She was honored very much and a reliable young lady. Secondly you can see oak leaves, which these symbolize her dependability and faithfulness. 
She wears two gold chains, a pricey pendant in the form of a female figure which is holding a table-cut blue stone; you can also see over her left side, placed on her heart is either a pendant or a brooch which is in the shape of an oak leave studded with either pearls or stones, which is looped through a purple ribbon. On her puffy sleeves you see embroided red roses and on her cap there are jewels in shape of roses. The elements of these objects and accessories reflect her faithfulness to the Tudors, with the use of roses, she is important and powerful. Pearls, gold and stones were only seen on wealthy, powerful people as these were luxury items and only wealthy people could afford such things. I like the fact she has the oak shaped brooch placed on her heart, this represents her passion and dedication; you can see she is proud and a powerful young women with her strong sitted position and good posture, it shows her confidence and flair and also importance as a Marchioness.


Information: https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/404439/thomas-howard-third-duke-of-norfolk-1473-1554
Information: https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/404439/thomas-howard-third-duke-of-norfolk-1473-1554 Portrait/model: Thomas Howard the Duke of Norfolk Date: 1473- 1553 Art print by Hans Holbein the younger
Thomas Howard the Duke of Norfolk

                                                

Thomas Howard the Duke of Norfolk the third, was a powerful noble in his country, he was uncle to Henry VIII’s Anne Boleyn and Katherine Howard second and fifth wives, he was also made a Knight of the Garter in April 1510 and lord high admiral in 1513. He was imprisoned for treason along with his son who was executed and he was sent to 6 years in prison. In the portrait, he is richly dressed with the use of his clothing, which reflects power, the huge padded gown with gold trim and the lynx fur trim collar, any use of animal fur is expensive and shows royalty also the gown where only rich men would wear. His clothes are very elaborate and you can see his pride and his importance of looking powerful within his facial expression. 
The rich wore fine wool and the poor would wear coarse wool, only the rich could afford embroided their clothes with silk gold or silver thread. They liked to show this with their clothes and accessories, he wears red silk jerkin underneath, the colour of red was important during this era it represented the Tudor rose colour, it also brings out the nobles skin colour, he isn’t as pale compared to people as time goes on.
He also wears a chunky gold chain across his gown with a pendant in the centre, which I believe is the order of garter, which represents the most noble which is the highest order of chivalry. He is holding his gold baton of earl marshal with pride, all of this reflects his position and hierarchy. He has a painting in the background of the picture, it looks like himself with people following him with horses, a lot of powerful people would get portraits done of themselves, and place them on the walls. He is standing on a fine cotton rug with use of embroidery, a lot of red, black and gold is used and looks like a lot of time went into the fine detail, he likes to show the audience of what he has and can afford.

 The use of a lot of expensive accessories was usual within royalty and wealthy people. Hats were always worn by Tudors and tights, he is wearing gold slipper like shoes, which were often made of rich cotton or silk. The most expensive dye were red and poor people would wear brown, yellow or blue. He is standing proud with the use of open body language this reflects his power. 


Reference: The History of England Volume II Tudors by Peter Ackroyd
Katherine of Aragon, Henry VIII's first wife.
Page 151 Chapter 13
Artist unknown, unknown year.

Katherine of Aragon




Katherine of Aragon was Henry VIII's first but unhappy wife and this quote reflects this, meaning she is true but hopefully people will know how badly mistreated she has been.

Reference of quote: http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/catherine-of-aragon/

‘In this world I will confess myself to be the king’s true wife, and in the next they will know how unreasonably I am afflicted.’
Katharine of Aragon, 1532
Katherine in this portrait is clearly decorated in pearls or stones, they look precious and there are a lot of them on her clothes and head wear. She is wearing a great use of red velvet or satin, her clothes look expensive, only rich women could afford such fabrics to wear. She has black embroidery on her sleeves, which is usually flower design, espescially on women. Around her square neck line, she has 5 pearls per design sectioned along it, I feel this representing the Tudor rose as it is also made of five parts and they look like pearl shaped roses. 

Either side of these pearl designed roses are precious gems which are rubies, this truly showed her status. In a lot of Tudor portraits, gold chains are used and gowns are fastened with lace, buttons in the shape of roses, hearts, acorns and lovers knots. 
Poorer Tudors would still wear jewellery but made from metal, wood or bone. You would be able to see the differences between different statuses. 

She as head wear on which was very popular for women to wear as a wealthy Tudor, it was either called a English hood or a Gable hood, because its pointed shape like a gable house, a house which is elaborate and highly detailed, it was sewn with pearls or gold. She has the veil hanging from her hood which her hair is in, it was structured tightly around her face in order to not move freely. The forehead is shown and her hair is not seen, the entire head wear became more complex and is jeweled and embroided, the way it was designed is still a mystery. 

Katherine's natural hair was very long, so therefore a more material was needed. She is wearing make-up to maker her skin white her cheeks slightly red along with her lips, you can see the contrast with the colours in the portrait. She is holding a flower in her hands, which is white and red, unsure of the type but flowers would represent protection of life and health. Overall Katherine was one of the most beautiful women in Tudor times and this portrait reflects her wealth and power.


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